Showing posts with label personal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label personal. Show all posts

Bali: Cats, dogs, chickens etc

Cats + Dogs


As I said in my previous post about the greenery in this part of the world, Bali appears to have water in abundance. And where there is water, there is life. And where there is life, there are usually humans. And where there are humans, there are dogs. And so forth.

Checking out the drain, momentarily distracted from chasing chickens
I had always been worried about my first encounters with dogs in Bali, because I remember learning in school that Balinese Hindus believed that dogs were reincarnations of people who were bad in their past lives, and so they didn't look after them very well. A related tradition is the way Balinese file down their canine teeth, because those teeth symbolise animal nature, and filing them represents the shedding of the six human evils (desire, greed, anger, intoxication,confusion, jealousy). I had heard stories of abused, rabid dogs wandering the streets with open wounds and even (wait for it) maggots crawling about.

Guarding the temple
So you can imagine how relieved I have been thus far in my travels to Bali by not having all my childhood nightmares of neglected animals come to fruition. I must point out though that I have already seen some pretty badly treated, skinny, flighty, unhappy horses stabled in a western hotel, and pet monkeys and large birds in small cages, so I'm a fair way from suggesting that Bali is in the clear as far as animal rights go. But I was happy to see that most of the dogs in our village appeared to have collars, and homes, and owners. (Note: There is a charity called the Bali Animal Welfare Association, that I'm going to find out more about because in particular, I'd like to talk to someone about those horses. They take donations and try to educate locals to improve animal welfare, and reduce the number of strays.)

Although they were skinny, the cats also looked a hell of a lot happier than the mangey, fleabitten, stumpy tailed strays I saw running rampant in Malaysia a few years ago. I think you have to be a bit skinny to survive in that heat actually. If my cat was in Bali she would die of heat exhaustion and heart failure. She's just too fat for that climate. (Yes, I had to add 'for that climate'.)


Dogs chillin'
Anyway, animals in Bali are tough. They're scavengers. Survivors. They hang about in motley little gangs on street corners like lost kids and you wonder whether, if they could muster the energy and then if they could work out some way to dispose of the spoils, they would pick your pockets.


Cat that implanted itself underneath the dining counter at a little warung in Sukawati. He had obviously been practicing those big beady Oliver Twist eyes. 

None of the dogs were particularly vicious, with humans anyway, particularly tourists. They might tail you along the footpath for a bit, barking loudly. Or, perched awkwardly on a step, lunging haphazardly at their ear with their skinny back leg trying to relieve an itch, they might shoot you a dodgy sideways glance. Perhaps they suspect that tourism is a main reason that there is any food in the dog bowl.

Boy do they have attitude though, and a sense of entitlement. And I dont know if it was the heat, but these animals just drop themselves wherever they please for a nap. Nevermind noise, traffic, customers.

See for yourself:
Cute cat looking pretty pleased with herself on a restaurant chair
Dog. Middle of main street. Sleeping.

Creepycrawlies


So I know my theory surrounding the abundances in Bali stemming solely from water is tenuous and based on a scientific-like hunch (that is a real thing, trust me I am an ex lawyer, sort of). But water does seem to have an influence on making living things in Bali grow BIGGER.

Check out these larger than normal animals. And I didn't even get a good photo of the bees, but trust me, they were GINORMOUS, sort of like large christmas beetles, but big and hairy. And mostly black, which I thought was a weird wardrobe choice in the heat. Nice one God. Or whatever.

Anyway:

Largeish frog, and its NOT a Cane Toad...check out that springy 'grass on steroids'. Huge!

This is a massive butterfly coccoon. It may not look it but its a few inches long and almost an inch wide. Their winged rainbow raptors make our butterflies look like little five cent tissue paper fairies. Whatever they are. Pfft.

This is a cricket. Or a grass hopper. More like grass TERMINATOR. It was quite large too but it scared me with its big hard lime coloured madonna muscle fitness legs so I couldn't get a picture of it next to anything meaningful. Sorry.

Birds

Ok. Now onto birds. Birds are amazing. Partly because they can fly, yes. But also because they have feathers. Have you ever thought how much more sophisticated feathers are to our pathetic little human hair follicles? Indeed. Feathers are (a) sophisticated, pretty and sometimes colourful (b) symmetrical (c) lightweight, aerodynamic, and water resistent (I think...).

No wonder they can fly! Whoever is monitoring the entry gates to the sky obviously just ushers them through based on how rad feathers are, I'm sure of it. Otherwise there's no way Pelicans would get up there. Too heavy. Also explains why emu's can't fly. Their feathers can be kinda fluffy and a bit mangey. Not really proper feathers.

Way off topic. I'm talking Bali. I'm talking birds.

Most birds I saw were either free roaming farm chickens with attitude (providing eggs, or wakeup calls, depending on their gender) or really amazing beautiful birds...kept in cages, which was a bit sad. But I was assured by the people who manage the Antonio Blanco art museum (which had an extensive collection of birds kept in cages at night), that many of the birds were old, and used to fly free, but things in Ubud have become too dangerous - lots of traffic, pollution, rubbish in the waterways, junk food they will eat. I kind of understand. I can't imagine those big magestic birds lasting too long around here. Gee. We humans are really ruining a lot of things. Still, it felt pretty amazing having those birds perch on my arm. They are HEAVY! (See, water, big-ness).

Rooster in the ricefields. With cool spotty pantaloon legs!
Me. Dork. At Antonio Blanco museum. With 3 large birds eyeing off my beads. And tourist frangipanns put in my hair while my arms were otherwise engaged to go with my tourist shorts and general look of tourist exhaustion. 
Still eyeing off the beads
A caged pair of big red buddies - latin name. They looked healthy, but bored. Really bored.

So that's it for animals. There weren't many birds in the sky. Maybe its too polluted. Maybe its too hot to fly during the day. We did hear heaps of birds at dawn and dusk, swallow type things, and saw them shooting around treetops near rice paddies, probably jetting in and out of the paddies to eat bugs. There were heaps of ducks in the rice fields too, but you could hear them more than see them. I avoided the monkey forest this time because their humanness kind of freaked me out last time, particularly the babies - their little ET fingers - aaah! And thankfully I didn't see any elephants, because I've heard nothing but bad stories about that. But then I guess you really need to see these things for yourself. I really shouldn't preempt such things.

Note: If you would like to check out this thread of Bali posts from the beginning, click here.

Extra note: Please be advised that much of the content in this post which purports to have scientific or evidentiary backing, doesn't really. Particularly the bits about feathers. I did biology, but that was a long time ago.

Bali: Pretty things I saw - or - An ode to H2O


One of the resounding reasons that Bali seems to have such an impact on me every time is because its so GREEN. There must be some scientific evidence that proves green does good things to the brain.

Coming from a town in central Victoria that was plagued by a 15 year drought, a community that has been more than a little traumatised by bushfire, and a State that built a desalination factory so that we could convert the ocean into water, Bali is by comparison a water fantasy land. As a hot spot for tourism in a fast developing country, Bali has some serious environmental challenges ahead. I read an article the other day that kind of cemented my fears on this front (read it here, but maybe get a cup of tea and a biscuit before you do because its a bit sad). Nevertheless, the generous, heavy, thundering rain, the fat, juicy, springy green plants, the large frogs leaping about in 'grass-on-steroids', groups of guys fishing socially in the local river, the kids splashing around with their families in the waterways, the hundreds of rice paddies filled from the intricate irrigation networks, even the really large showerhead in the bathroom - were all reminders (good or otherwise) of water in quantities I am just not used to.



So, rather than just being about pretty things, this post is also kind of my visual ode to H2O. How beautiful it makes the planet. How essential it is. How much I miss it sometimes. How we should probably be a bit more careful about it.

Enjoy some virtual hydrotherapy:

The lush garden at Villa Ibu. No watering required.  
Natural hot springs welling up from the ground at the holy water temple  
Beautiful view of the rice fields, with offerings nestled in a small tree
Jatiluwih - the spectacular UNESCO listed rice fields 
Veggie patches and greenhouses along the rice paddy walk
Tegenungan waterfall 
Waterlilies are everywhere

More rice fields, with rain clouds on the horizon
The majestic Gunung & Danau Batur (Batur Mountain & Lake)  
Note: If you'd like to read from the beginning of the Bali thread, click here.

Bali: Surprise, its Galungan festival!

As I said earlier, in visiting Ubud we were on a bit of a cultural voyage. So the fact that we arrived in Bali on the week of Galungan festival was serendipitous (you can read more about the festival here). I mean, Indonesia is always celebrating something. But this one is huge. More than a week of intense days of preparation, celebration, street decoration, food (particularly eating pork, sacrificed especially for the occasion), temple visits, kids parading about the streets in their clanging gamelan bands followed by a mini dancing dragon. Basically the idea is that once a year (210 days in the Balinese calendar) the spirits of cremated relatives come back for a visit and its everyone's job to be as hospitable as possible, through generous offerings, celebration and prayer. It is also when Balinece celebrate the victory of dharma over adharma. My simple understanding is that its a combination of the sentiments:  'things are in balance', 'good has beaten evil' and 'woohoo, we made it!'. Galungan was a perfect time to be in a Balinese village, because the community truly erupted in decoration and music. Everyone was dressed in traditional dress (heres a photo of us with Pak Tangsi ready for temple), smiling and enjoying their few days off. Although I must say, the women worked tirelessly, preparing all the offerings and food, and seemed mega exhausted once it was over.


Visiting the three village temples on Galungan day (each with its own meaning and symbolic location, find out more here if you're interested) was a really special experience. Wearing my traditional kabaya (tailored by Tangsi's clever wife, and wrapped snugly around me by Tangsi's daughter on the day) meant that I looked only slightly less out of place with my pale skin and light hair! Thankfully we already new some locals by then, so there were friendly welcomes all around, and one kind lady generously gave us flowers and incense when it was apparent we hadn't brought our own.

Tangsi also led us through the process of prayer. It had a lot more to do with contemplative thought, being grateful, and listening to your heart than anything I had expected. I actually found the practice quite calming! I'm not about to convert to Hindu or any religion anytime soon. But I could see why the ideals and practices of Balinese Hinduism might appeal to a westerner seeking solace. Hence the masses of women (in particular) who have flocked to Bali for all kinds of spiritual nourishment. Hence Eat Pray Love. I kinda get it.





For visitors that don't get caught up in local festivities, the appearance of penjor along the streets is probably the most obvious sign of Galungan. These welcoming street decorations are prepared and displayed by each family and erected out the front of their homes. They are made from a bamboo pole and decorated by things from the ricefields or farms - flowers, bunches of rice kernels, leaves. While they are all similar, each family takes pride in making it their own way. They have a rule that everything it is made from has to be natural. But every rule can be bent for convenience of course - they were fastened together using staples! Love it!


Note: This post forms part of a whole bunch on my trip to Ubud, Bali. If you want to read it from the start, heres the first post!



Bali: A trip to the heart

When we mentioned to friends that we were headed to Bali for 10 days, many were surprised to hear that we had no intention of visiting a single beach. Our sights were set squarely on higher ground.

We planned to immerse ourselves in the traditional culture and history of this picturesque island. If you've ever ventured to Ubud, famously referred to as the cultural heart of Bali, you'll know it was just the right place.

Seeking accommodation out of town, we stumbled on the picturesque village of Bentuyung, about 4 kilometres north of Ubud. It turned out that our villa was owned by the village elder, Pak Wayan Tangsi -  a warm, intelligent guy with a good sense of humour, who made us feel right at home in his community. I wrote a review of Villa Ibu on TripAdviser here if you're interested. For a couple of days we also stayed in central Ubud at Bali Moon, hosted by the lovely husband and wife, Wayan and Made, to be a bit closer to the action. I haven't written a review yet, but it was great. I'll replace this text when I eventually do!


We crammed a hell of a lot into our little trip, despite being sick for the first few days with a cold I dragged with me from Melbourne. But it didn't stop us! I took hundreds of beautiful photos, which I will attempt to cull to their bare bones so you can enjoy them. I thought I would try doing little bite size chapters, each in a separate post and on a different theme so that (a) I don't get overwhelmed by the task (b) YOU dont get overwhelmed and (c) the pages don't take forever to load.

I'll add links to the posts as I go!

Click here to read about:

The good that comes from the bad

So there is one big thing I have really been meaning to write about!

Just over a year ago I was diagnosed with tuberculosis.

This was pretty weird. For a plethora or reasons: I'm a young, female, white, middle class westerner who is generally rather homely and boring. [Although those factors didn't help Beth much in Little Women!]. So I'm not a statistically obvious candidate for this vintage ailment.

But its mostly weird because I am named after a young girl who grew up in my little home town at the turn of the last century who died from TB. DIED I tells ya! Things have certainly come a long way since then thankfully and I'm not going to die or anything. But that is a creepy coincidence right?

Now, sufferin' the consumption was nasty. The drugs were really yucky, intense and boring. But it forced me to stop, and slowed me down, and gave me a chance to enjoy things properly, and wonder why I'm here and who I am and whether it even means anything? Being cooped up at home under quarantine, I had time, real time!

So what must one do in the face of such peril? Besides learn origami, drink tea, read Frankie and take endless instagram photos of the cat...?

Well I bought a ukulele of course! I started strumming away, writing cute little happy tunes, singing out from under the doona in my pyjamas! One thing led to another. When I felt a bit better, I sung at my first open mic night and people really liked my songs! I'd always been so freaking SHY, that this was a lovely surprise and a bit of a hallelujah moment (without the angels)!

Then I busked. I formed a little ukulele band (the urban ukes). We got a residency in a little cafe. I got my first paid gig. First festival. I took a break from work. I auditioned for music school. And then I got in! I even won a little study grant from the lovely NMIT to help me along my way!

And on top of all that, or maybe because of all that, I fell in love with a beautiful man!

So there you go. Some truly great things can truly come from the bad. You never know where this crazy life is going to take you. Sometimes you just need a kick up the bum to make you do the things you love!